Sunday 17 June 2012

My trip to Corbett National Park


A trip to Corbett National Park last weekend gave me an opportunity to unwind in nature’s lap, far away from the maddening city life and a perfect getaway for a person like me, for whom nature is the best and the ultimate teacher. It has the knack of teaching the most complicated of things in the most subtlest of ways, leaving an imprint that stays long, sometimes for a lifetime. The journey from Chandigarh to Ramnagar, though a bit long and tedious, via Dehradun and Haridwar, was spread over 2 days and was quite enjoyable as I thrive to prefect the art of enjoying the journey instead of focussing only on the destination. The Nahan-Paonta Sahib route continues to charm me, even after my umpteen number of visits on the same, as it always throws up a new corner of the forest with a flowering tree, at its brilliant best, or a view rendered anew by the cloud and foliage combination of multiple hues, diverse species, zonation and the difference created by the sun facing and the sheltered slopes of the hillside.
Haridwar’s  religious importance not withstanding, there is something in the city which touches every  soul, how the ice cold waters of the mighty Ganga flowing at tremendous speed retain the chillness even after its long journey from the distant Gangotri glacier amazes me no end and all my knowledge of science fails me surprisingly, but I don’t mind at all, for some things need to be mystical in order to retain their charm! The mellifluous sound of the evening arti at the Har ki Paidi, didn’t allow me to remain inside my room in the rest house and I felt drawn by an invisible force and before I could realise, I stood on the ghat, watching the reflections of the uncountable arti lamps shimmer in the holy river in the fast current, coupled with the myriad leaf boats full of vibrant marigolds and the perfumed roses, and  diyas, floating on the waves, carrying the wishes of the pilgrims to their desired deities. A majestic break preceding the journey ahead.
The next day, the 200 odd km road journey to Ramnagar, though was not as beautiful in terms of the route, with the highway passing through the small towns  and villages  big and small, but  was interesting no doubt as my fellow road users ensured that there was not a moment of dullness in the travel. Sometimes a bus honking behind continuosly forcing the tyres of my vehicle, to glide to the katcha pavement for obvious safety, sometimes a motorbike rider deciding to become our unwanted escort zooming straight out of the side road to inches ahead of the bonnet, at times a bicyclewala, indulging in a tyre salsa tantalisingly close to the wheels, not to speak of the innumerable privately constructed invisible speed-breakers jolting the occupants of the rear seat from their blissful slumbers! The landscape too varied with patches of barren lands interspersed with those full of sugarcane culms swaying in the searing heat, with fields being readied for the paddy transplantation, monsoon willing; vast expanses of yellow blossom of the ladyfinger and the cucurbits.....and the occasional stretches laden with the undefinable smell emanating from a not too distant sugar mill led us to Ramnagar.
Our first stop, the Ramnagar office of the Corbett Tiger Reserve, was filled with curious tourists, rushing from window to window, collecting their passes and permits to enable them to enter the Core zone of the reserve, the Mecca of nature lovers...Dhikala! An olive green open gypsy became our companion, vowing to be with us for the next 3 days in our adventure in the wild, with the harried driver sounding the first alarm, we were soon to get in the home of the animal kingdom, and the privileged right of way was entirely theirs, and everyone had to behave accordingly, to rule out any chance of offending them or inviting their ire. The 20 km drive or the ride to the Dhangari gate in the afternoon sun, with the sun God in a totally unrelenting mood had us busy in discovering innovative methods of protecting our heads and bodies, with only the trees providing a few welcome seconds of respite intermittently.

 Once inside the gate, the magic of Corbett took over; the dense canopy of the trees ensured that the ensuing two hour journey was pleasant....the herds of cheetals hiding behind the bushes, the beautiful sambars looking rather perplexed at the sight of aliens staring at them from close quarters, the monkeys jumping from one branch to the next, and the occasional barking deer scampering into the bushes. The winding road, the uneven terrain and the quietness associated with the afternoon forest, kept us totally engaged and we reached the Dhikala tourist complex, to be greeted by a stunning yellow amaltash (Cassia fistula) in full bloom near the entry gate! Surprisingly the 250 odd km journey had not tired anyone and the evening safari had all excited and eager passengers ready before time, armed with caps, the cameras, the water bottles and the binoculars; the kids ready for their first real lessons in the wild. And what a safari it turned out to be, just at a stones throw from the complex, an elephant herd crossed our track, and it was quite a task suppressing the children’s  superexcited states to levels of hushed whispers! The safari continued well into the twilight with sightings of many more elephant groups, feathered beauties in abundant shapes, sizes and colours, spotted deer and barking deer groups in a state of perpetual preparedness for escape. The journey back to the complex showed the the brilliant colours of  the pristine forest at dusk with the fading light giving each corner a totally different hue. As the night fell and darkness engulfed the area, the silence of the woods manifested magnificently leaving those having the  intent lending their ears to the singing cicadas and other creatures. The view of the river bank at night from the window of my room,too was spectacular with the white sand shimmering in the soft moonlight and the sweet sound of silence pervading the hot and sultry night.

Early morning and evening safaris the next day too were equally rewarding; sightings of the deer groups with their fawns, the barking deer alerting its friends with continuous animated and impatient calls, the eager wait at strategic points to catch a glimpse of the king of Corbett, the beautiful birds giving constant company all along particularly the emerald doves and the paradise fly catchers justifying the park’s billing as the bird watcher’s paradise!! The blue waters of the park’s lifeline, the Ramganga, too presented a few unforgettable moments of absolute delight, as they let us enjoy the sights of animals quenching their thirsts,  in a state of alertness, fearing an ambush by their predator any minute.
As all good things come to an end, so our trip too had to, but the thrill, the absolute joy and the moments of super-excitement it provided have been deeply etched in our memories. The journey back to Ramnagar too was filled with many sightings but the one image which stands apart is the sight of the lone tusker standing on the banks of the river playfully frollicking  in its crystal clear water, sometimes drinking sometimes splashing it all around !